Oaxaca’s Magical Charm
The magical charms of the Mexican state of Oaxaca. Pictured: the mole negro - a Oaxacan speciality - at the delightful Mejorana in Xtilu Hotel
It’s been referred to as magical and perhaps for good reason. Oaxaca, a state in southwestern Mexico, and at its core, the vibrant city of Oaxaca de Juarez (the Juarez, a nod to former first indigenous President of Mexico who was born in Oaxaca) or simply, Oaxaca, its capital. It’s a sensorial metropolis pulsating with all manner of vibration - sights, sounds, smells, intricate flavors that assault the tastebuds (in an en exciting, euphoric way!), and all around, the bountifulness of nature that envelops one. Oaxaca had been one of those places that held a certain fascination for me and thus, naturally, it’d occupied a permanent spot on my ever growing list of places I desire to see.
Recently I had the chance to tick it off the list — spending a glorious 5 days in the city and its environs, and what can I say, I’m quite convinced I was enraptured in its hypnosis. It does bear stating that admittedly, I didn’t get to see the whole state - for instance I didn’t go down to the coast which is certainly a draw for a lot of folks. Suffice it to say, however, there’s plenty to see and do inland and I left quite fully content with what I got to experience.
Flight arrivals touch down at Aeropuerto de Oaxaca or OAX with (as of this writing) American & United offering direct flights from their respective hubs at Dallas and Houston, respectively. Multiple seamless connections are however possible via the aforementioned and other gateways such as Mexico City. Getting into town is fairly easy and straightforward via shared taxi vans (Collectivos) which are easily booked right as you arrive or can be booked ahead as well. I arrived quite late, closer to 11PM, on one of the last few flights of the night, and had no trouble hopping on one of these vans. Alternatively, if preferred, a lot of hotels can otherwise arrange transfer services which may be more convenient.
Checking out the scene: Oaxaca has more of a small town feel and can be quite easily managed on foot, at least the Centro area. I would highly recommend settling on accommodations within this vicinity as you’re close to just about every point of interest in the center. As an initial point of orientation for navigation, the Zocalo (or Plaza de la Constitution) - folks who are familiar with Mexico City would know that one exists there, too; this one’s much smaller - is a good starting point. It’s at the core of Centro. A square where the populace gather and all manner of activity occur. Flanked by the Zocalo are eateries, shops, places of worship (for instance the Metropolitan Cathedral of Oaxaca/Catedral Metropolitana de Oaxaca Nuestra Señora de la Asunción and the Basílica de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, both worth checking out), and the city’s main markets or mercados, Mercado Benito Juarez and Mercado 20 de Noviembre, which may also be of interest. They’re bustling marketplaces full of activity and local eateries within.
Continue on via the main tourist thoroughfare (closed to automobiles) of Andador Turistico which is lined with more shops, lots of cafes and restaurants, and local vendors selling arts and crafts. It’s a brilliant way to while away the afternoon. Do make time to check out the impressive 16th Century Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzman, also encompassing a former cloister turned museum, Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca where stunning pre-Hispanic relics from nearby Monte Albán are displayed, amongst others. Do reserve time, perhaps on ensuing days, if you’d had your fill, to explore nearby charming neighborhoods of Barrio de Xochimilco and Barrio de Jalatlaco to the north and east respectively. Jalatlaco, once having been the less desirable part of town has experienced quite the renaissance and is home to lots of artisanal cafes, restaurants, chocolaterias, shops, etc. Both neighborhoods also have beautiful artworks on display - you can’t miss the creative murals that feature through most of the areas.
Further afield excursions to surrounding communities and points of interests should certainly make every itinerary to the region. The sprawling nature preserve at the ecological park of Hierve el Agua is quite spectacular. Give yourself enough time to explore the bountifulness of nature here and bring comfortable shoes for the hike (fear not, there is a less tedious path). And as a reward post trekking through the trails, take a dip in the inviting springs as you make your way back to the summit. The water’s pleasant and the backdrop, with the hypnotic mountain range, is simply divine. Another not to be missed point of interest is the ancient mighty complex which used to be the seat of the Zapotecs, Monte Albán. Existing from pre-Hispanic times, roughly five thousand years ago, from 200BC to 600AD, before its eventual decline around 800AD. It really is a sight to behold, so certainly make sure it’s added to your list.
Permeating this rich culture is the incredibly scrumptious fare and I would be remiss in not punctuating its foremost place in Oaxaca. Not unlike most other cultures, food is at the core of daily life, and there’s a certain reverence I feel Oaxacans have for it. It’s a place where the concept of farm-to-table is more commonplace vs. a trendy phenomenon. It’s fresh, flavorful, and indeed quite inspiring. If you’re one who appreciates a good meal, you’re in for a treat.
Overall quite a remarkable experience. For assistance planning bespoke trips to Oaxaca or other destinations, do not hesitate to get in touch. We’re happy to be at your service.
Lebanon, A Brief Memo.
From vibrant Beirut - historically referred to as the Paris of the Middle East - to the Beqaa Valley, it’s a place steeped in centuries of history, with a culturally dense fabric. It’s endlessly fascinating.
This is Lebanon - a nation on the shores of the eastern Mediterranean. It borders Israel to the south, and Syria to its east and north. The bustling metropolis of Beirut - affectionately termed the Paris of the Middle East - is its capital and is centrally located. The city envelops visitors in its warmth while stupendously assaulting the taste buds (truly, rarely does one have a bad meal here).
Farther afield, excursions to the Beqaa Valley—visiting the ruins at Baalbek and Anjar; passing time in Byblos, and indulging in some truly tasty vintages at Ksara, were all remarkable experiences.
Undeniably, the historical context is complex, and the cultural fabric rich. To be sure, trying challenges continue - it was humbling to broaden our learnings, and the people - stalwarts of resiliency - were excellent teachers.
Make it a pin 📌 on your next visit to the area.
Beautiful Bosnia & Herzegovina
Sarajevo, a bustling capital filled with enthusiasm, hope, and promise.
Bosnia & Herzegovina is a Balkan state situated just east of the Adriatic Coast. It borders Croatia to its west and north, and Montenegro and Serbia to its south and east respectively. It’s a beautiful nation with lush landscapes and truly hypnotic beauty owning to its varied terrain, alluring vegetation, and rich produce.
Start your trip in the fairytale-like town of Mostar with its imposing Stari Most (or Old Brigde), and, further afield be sure to visit neighboring points of interest such as the divine Sufi monastery of Blagaj Tekke.From there make your way north towards the capital Sarajevo. En route, a stop at the impressive underground complex that is Tito’s Bunker is highly recommended.
Sarajevo is a gem of a capital. Savor its rich culture and stupendously delicious cuisine. Plus, scale to higher heights ascending to the top of the Trebevic mountain range. There you can take in breathtaking sights of the city, and also chart a course along the old bobsledding tracks from the 1984 Olympics.
To be sure its had a tortured past and one can still see signs of this across the nation. It’s fair to say though that it’s charging towards a vibrant frontier and its populace is showcasing this beautifully to the world.
Make it a pin 📌 on your next visit to the area.
Seductive Sicily
Quattro Canti or Piazza Vigliena - A Baroque square in Palermo, Sicily.
Rounding out our Mediterranean island feature series, we’ve saved, in my opinion, the best for last. The largest of the islands and I would say, the jewel of the Mediterranean, Sicily.
Sicily certainly has a certain kind of allure. An island steeped in centuries of history, its cultural tapestry is rich, owing to various influences across the region - the Greeks, Romans, Normans, Arabs; the list carries on. This amalgamation of influences creates a beautiful harmony in its existence today.
Just off the Strait of Messina, the island lies to the west of southern Italy’s boot - its toe to be more precise, while the vibrant cities of Taormina, Catania, Siracusa, etc. (destinations not to be missed), straddle the deep blues of the Ionian. Further up to the northwest, sits its capital and commercial hub, Palermo, a bustling metropolis with plenty of reminders and nods to its regal past (do plan to check out some of its well kept palazzos), and further afield charming towns such as Cefalu, Trapani and Erice, all hugging the Tyrrhenian.
Your options are almost boundless here. There’s so much to see and do - you’ll need multiple trips. It’s a place I’ve visited a number of times and still yet to cover it all. As one might expect, you’ll eat (and drink) very well here. Naturally, given its island status, all manner of seafood feature as star of the cuisine though myriad other choices are present as well. The local wines are also a treat; there’s something for just about every palate.
Having visited the island a number of times (even pre-the White Lotus craze - all in good jest), we’ve covered a good swath. For bespoke itineraries to Sicily, please do not hesitate to contact us.
Cruising Through Cyprus
The 9th Century Greek Orthodox Church of St. Lazarus, Larnaca.
Continuing our series on Mediterranean island features, today we spotlight one that may not immediately come to mind, the beautiful island nation of Cyprus.
Owning to its eastern Mediterranean location, just off the coasts of Lebanon, Syria, and Turkey, it holds an advantageous position of having temperate year-round weather, so one may visit a good chunk of the year and still bask in favorable temps (this feature is from the Fall, Oct.)
It’s a unique island in that a good swath of the central south-west, the Republic of Cyprus, is Greek-speaking, while the north-eastern area, the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus, is Turkish speaking. The capital, Nicosia (or Lefkosia), sits at the center of both regions and it is possible for one to cross to the other, on foot (just make sure your passport’s handy).
Traversing the island is quite straightforward and easy via the impressive interconnected highways and we also found each town to have its distinct characteristic. In addition, the history and culture is rich - Paphos Archeological Park is must see, amongst others.
Overall, a delightful time. Make it a pin on your next visit to the area.
Georgia’s Gastronomic Delight
The mouthwatering cuisine Georgia. Most of the restaurants featured are in Tbilisi.
A great meal is a divine experience. Very few things compare to mouthwatering, satisfying nourishment. Thus, I love a good dish. I was excited to visit Georgia—but if truth be told, I was anxious about the food (because I was simply ignorant about the cuisine and had preconceived notions). I was quite wrong.
One of my lasting impressions of our time there remain the meals. Just wow—rich in flavor and quite veggie forward. I most enjoyed the Pkhalis, a starter melange, akin to a meze. Oftentimes these were so thoroughly satisfying that there was little room left by the time we got to the main course. The corn bread basket (GF friendly) was also another menu item that reduced us to gluttony. The food (and as one may imagine, the wine) certainly shines through amongst several other charming qualities. Give it a whirl, it’s certainly worth it.
Charming Cartagena
The vibrant city of Cartagena, Colombia.
Rimming the northwestern coast of the South American continent, and straddling the Caribbean Sea, Cartagena, for centuries, served as a key export trading post. Visitors will immediately notice evidence of this in the well preserved San Felipe de Barajas Fort and the impressive barriers of the walls encircling the old town.
The populace are warm and inviting, the food, with heavy Afro-Caribbean influences simply mouthwatering (it’s truly hard to have a terrible meal here), the barrios fascinating, particularly the bohemian and Afrocentric neighborhood of Getsemaní, and the further afield Rosario islands a beach lovers paradise (though fair warning beware of the sometimes turbulent seas!)
It’s been a trip in the making for many years. Glad to have finally checked it out. I look forward to visiting again. Make it a destination or certainly add as a pitstop on a Colombian/South American trip. For tips or help planning your upcoming getaway, do get in touch; be happy to assist.