Oaxaca’s Magical Charm
It’s been referred to as magical and perhaps for good reason. Oaxaca, a state in southwestern Mexico, and at its core, the vibrant city of Oaxaca de Juarez (the Juarez, a nod to former first indigenous President of Mexico who was born in Oaxaca) or simply, Oaxaca, its capital. It’s a sensorial metropolis pulsating with all manner of vibration - sights, sounds, smells, intricate flavors that assault the tastebuds (in an en exciting, euphoric way!), and all around, the bountifulness of nature that envelops one. Oaxaca had been one of those places that held a certain fascination for me and thus, naturally, it’d occupied a permanent spot on my ever growing list of places I desire to see.
Recently I had the chance to tick it off the list — spending a glorious 5 days in the city and its environs, and what can I say, I’m quite convinced I was enraptured in its hypnosis. It does bear stating that admittedly, I didn’t get to see the whole state - for instance I didn’t go down to the coast which is certainly a draw for a lot of folks. Suffice it to say, however, there’s plenty to see and do inland and I left quite fully content with what I got to experience.
Flight arrivals touch down at Aeropuerto de Oaxaca or OAX with (as of this writing) American & United offering direct flights from their respective hubs at Dallas and Houston, respectively. Multiple seamless connections are however possible via the aforementioned and other gateways such as Mexico City. Getting into town is fairly easy and straightforward via shared taxi vans (Collectivos) which are easily booked right as you arrive or can be booked ahead as well. I arrived quite late, closer to 11PM, on one of the last few flights of the night, and had no trouble hopping on one of these vans. Alternatively, if preferred, a lot of hotels can otherwise arrange transfer services which may be more convenient.
Checking out the scene: Oaxaca has more of a small town feel and can be quite easily managed on foot, at least the Centro area. I would highly recommend settling on accommodations within this vicinity as you’re close to just about every point of interest in the center. As an initial point of orientation for navigation, the Zocalo (or Plaza de la Constitution) - folks who are familiar with Mexico City would know that one exists there, too; this one’s much smaller - is a good starting point. It’s at the core of Centro. A square where the populace gather and all manner of activity occur. Flanked by the Zocalo are eateries, shops, places of worship (for instance the Metropolitan Cathedral of Oaxaca/Catedral Metropolitana de Oaxaca Nuestra Señora de la Asunción and the Basílica de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, both worth checking out), and the city’s main markets or mercados, Mercado Benito Juarez and Mercado 20 de Noviembre, which may also be of interest. They’re bustling marketplaces full of activity and local eateries within.
Continue on via the main tourist thoroughfare (closed to automobiles) of Andador Turistico which is lined with more shops, lots of cafes and restaurants, and local vendors selling arts and crafts. It’s a brilliant way to while away the afternoon. Do make time to check out the impressive 16th Century Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzman, also encompassing a former cloister turned museum, Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca where stunning pre-Hispanic relics from nearby Monte Albán are displayed, amongst others. Do reserve time, perhaps on ensuing days, if you’d had your fill, to explore nearby charming neighborhoods of Barrio de Xochimilco and Barrio de Jalatlaco to the north and east respectively. Jalatlaco, once having been the less desirable part of town has experienced quite the renaissance and is home to lots of artisanal cafes, restaurants, chocolaterias, shops, etc. Both neighborhoods also have beautiful artworks on display - you can’t miss the creative murals that feature through most of the areas.
Further afield excursions to surrounding communities and points of interests should certainly make every itinerary to the region. The sprawling nature preserve at the ecological park of Hierve el Agua is quite spectacular. Give yourself enough time to explore the bountifulness of nature here and bring comfortable shoes for the hike (fear not, there is a less tedious path). And as a reward post trekking through the trails, take a dip in the inviting springs as you make your way back to the summit. The water’s pleasant and the backdrop, with the hypnotic mountain range, is simply divine. Another not to be missed point of interest is the ancient mighty complex which used to be the seat of the Zapotecs, Monte Albán. Existing from pre-Hispanic times, roughly five thousand years ago, from 200BC to 600AD, before its eventual decline around 800AD. It really is a sight to behold, so certainly make sure it’s added to your list.
Permeating this rich culture is the incredibly scrumptious fare and I would be remiss in not punctuating its foremost place in Oaxaca. Not unlike most other cultures, food is at the core of daily life, and there’s a certain reverence I feel Oaxacans have for it. It’s a place where the concept of farm-to-table is more commonplace vs. a trendy phenomenon. It’s fresh, flavorful, and indeed quite inspiring. If you’re one who appreciates a good meal, you’re in for a treat.
Overall quite a remarkable experience. For assistance planning bespoke trips to Oaxaca or other destinations, do not hesitate to get in touch. We’re happy to be at your service.
