Sardinia, Enchanted Island
Sardinia: A most fascinating and remarkable island. With its rich history, food, nature, stunning beaches, delightful people, etc., Sardinia enchants the visitor. One need only visit with an open mind.
It’s a rather chilly and rainy morning at the end of July in Paris. It’s something I wouldn’t have expected; after all, summer’s in full swing. Mother Nature begs to differ, however. I suppose continued negligence of proper care of our surroundings has its repercussions. I’m wholly unprepared having just landed at Charles de Gaulle (CDG) airport on the overnight from JFK. I’m in a t-shirt and shorts while other Parisians we encounter in the terminal have the benefit of knowing, and are dressed more suitably. Thankfully I’ve just a mere couple hours to bear the frigid temps; I’m here on a brief layover, en route to my final destination, the island of Sardinia.
From North America, as of this accounting, there are no direct flights to the island. A few European gateways, such as Paris, and of course major cities on Italy’s mainland, offer straightforward connections to either Olbia in the north, or Cagliari, its capital, in the south. Today, I’m headed to Cagliari where our journey begins. As aforementioned, it’s its capital, and is also its largest city.
Touch down’s at Cagliari Elmas Airport (CAG), which is roughly a 15 min taxi ride into town. These are easily accessible outside the terminal and are a flat 25 Euros (as of this writing) to most of the central area. Tip: If you happen to be staying within the Marina area, hop on the efficient REG train service to the main train terminal in town. It’s quite fast, roughly 5 mins, and of course at a fraction of the cost.
So, here we are in Cagliari, the jumping off point for our exploration of the island. It’s a vibrant metropolis with a rich history spanning centuries and an enthusiastic people eager to welcome visitors. The charming B&B, Eleventh Fl. Suites run by its proprietress, the delightful Roberta, is where I’ve chosen to spend the next several days as we find our footing here in the south and explore the region before making our way up north. With a population of under 200k and a relatively contained center, it’s quite easily manageable. Getting around on foot is easy (if quite a bit hilly in parts, so be mindful), and most points of interest arevwithin relative close proximity.
Cagliari is significant in Italian history, having once been the seat of the Kingdom of Sardinia-Piedmont, serving as its capital for almost 500 years. Elements of this regal past can still be seen today in the city’s hilltop old quarter which is referred to as the Quartiere Castello (or Castello Quarter). In fact, this is where I’d recommend kicking things off. Ascend to the Castello quarter by taking the steps at the portal of the formidable Bastion Saint Remy (named after Baron San Remy, the first Viceroy of Piedmont). You’re then emptied into a grand open plaza where you can take in impressive almost 360 degree views of greater Cagliari below.
From there, make your way to one of the most important structures in the Castello, within the Piazza Palazzo, the 13th century Cathedral of Santa Maria di Castello, or simply the Cagliari Cathedral. Within the piazza you may also visit the Palazzo Regio, and the modest though impressive Palazzo di Citta. Finally, round out the afternoon by making your way to the nearby 2nd Century Amfiteatro Romano di Cagliari. It’s unique in its construction - parts of it were carved from the hillside where it’s located and the rest of it from limestone. Also, visitors are once again treated to delightful views of the sea from here.
Lots of excursions are possible from Cagliari. Be sure to catch the adorable pink flamingos at Parco Naturale Molentargius Saline, take some time out for some R&R at the pleasurable city beach at Poetto, and further afield, Spiaggia Su Giudeu, plus, experience the ruins at the ancient 8th Century BC city of Nora.
Sardinia, though the second largest island in the Mediterranean, is fairly manageable to explore. Renting a car is highly recommended and is quite straightforward. From Cagliari, we made our way up north to the glitzy Costa Smeralda though making pitstops along the way. Cala Ganone on the island’s east coast is an easy detour en route. Stop by for lunch and a leisure afternoon or, better yet, spend the night should time permit. The waterfront property of Hotel Cala Luna is perfectly situated, offering spectacular views of the sea. From there, the city of Olbia is a relatively short drive away. Here we camped out for our exploration of the northern part of the island. Olbia is easily accessible to Porto Cervo, Palau, La Maddalena, etc., to name a few points of interest. Island hop sailing tours are also possible via multiple tour operators from the town of Palau for instance. This region has a lot of beautiful islands to explore, so make it a point to include on your itinerary. And if you don’t particularly care for a full package tour, then popping over to Palau and taking a ferry (operators run a frequent schedule) to the island of La Maddalena is highly recommended. The journey is smooth and pleasant; plus the island (as with most things in Sardinia) is a stunner.
Switching gears to the west coast, located to the northwest of the island, roughly about a two hour drive from Olbia, is the unique and charming mediaeval city of Alghero. Unique in the sense that due to its geography and historical context (having once been under the Aragonese crown) Catalan is recognized as a minority language and some of its residents still speak it today. The cobblestoned old town, marina, and impressive fortifications of the old fort are sights not to be missed.
Overall, a most fascinating and remarkable island. With its rich history, food, nature, stunning beaches, delightful people, etc., Sardinia enchants the visitor. One need only visit with an open mind.
For bespoke itineraries to Sardinia, do not hesitate to get in touch. We’re happy to help.
Lebanon, A Brief Memo.
From vibrant Beirut - historically referred to as the Paris of the Middle East - to the Beqaa Valley, it’s a place steeped in centuries of history, with a culturally dense fabric. It’s endlessly fascinating.
This is Lebanon - a nation on the shores of the eastern Mediterranean. It borders Israel to the south, and Syria to its east and north. The bustling metropolis of Beirut - affectionately termed the Paris of the Middle East - is its capital and is centrally located. The city envelops visitors in its warmth while stupendously assaulting the taste buds (truly, rarely does one have a bad meal here).
Farther afield, excursions to the Beqaa Valley—visiting the ruins at Baalbek and Anjar; passing time in Byblos, and indulging in some truly tasty vintages at Ksara, were all remarkable experiences.
Undeniably, the historical context is complex, and the cultural fabric rich. To be sure, trying challenges continue - it was humbling to broaden our learnings, and the people - stalwarts of resiliency - were excellent teachers.
Make it a pin 📌 on your next visit to the area.
Seductive Sicily
Quattro Canti or Piazza Vigliena - A Baroque square in Palermo, Sicily.
Rounding out our Mediterranean island feature series, we’ve saved, in my opinion, the best for last. The largest of the islands and I would say, the jewel of the Mediterranean, Sicily.
Sicily certainly has a certain kind of allure. An island steeped in centuries of history, its cultural tapestry is rich, owing to various influences across the region - the Greeks, Romans, Normans, Arabs; the list carries on. This amalgamation of influences creates a beautiful harmony in its existence today.
Just off the Strait of Messina, the island lies to the west of southern Italy’s boot - its toe to be more precise, while the vibrant cities of Taormina, Catania, Siracusa, etc. (destinations not to be missed), straddle the deep blues of the Ionian. Further up to the northwest, sits its capital and commercial hub, Palermo, a bustling metropolis with plenty of reminders and nods to its regal past (do plan to check out some of its well kept palazzos), and further afield charming towns such as Cefalu, Trapani and Erice, all hugging the Tyrrhenian.
Your options are almost boundless here. There’s so much to see and do - you’ll need multiple trips. It’s a place I’ve visited a number of times and still yet to cover it all. As one might expect, you’ll eat (and drink) very well here. Naturally, given its island status, all manner of seafood feature as star of the cuisine though myriad other choices are present as well. The local wines are also a treat; there’s something for just about every palate.
Having visited the island a number of times (even pre-the White Lotus craze - all in good jest), we’ve covered a good swath. For bespoke itineraries to Sicily, please do not hesitate to contact us.
Cruising Through Cyprus
The 9th Century Greek Orthodox Church of St. Lazarus, Larnaca.
Continuing our series on Mediterranean island features, today we spotlight one that may not immediately come to mind, the beautiful island nation of Cyprus.
Owning to its eastern Mediterranean location, just off the coasts of Lebanon, Syria, and Turkey, it holds an advantageous position of having temperate year-round weather, so one may visit a good chunk of the year and still bask in favorable temps (this feature is from the Fall, Oct.)
It’s a unique island in that a good swath of the central south-west, the Republic of Cyprus, is Greek-speaking, while the north-eastern area, the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus, is Turkish speaking. The capital, Nicosia (or Lefkosia), sits at the center of both regions and it is possible for one to cross to the other, on foot (just make sure your passport’s handy).
Traversing the island is quite straightforward and easy via the impressive interconnected highways and we also found each town to have its distinct characteristic. In addition, the history and culture is rich - Paphos Archeological Park is must see, amongst others.
Overall, a delightful time. Make it a pin on your next visit to the area.
Charming Cartagena
The vibrant city of Cartagena, Colombia.
Rimming the northwestern coast of the South American continent, and straddling the Caribbean Sea, Cartagena, for centuries, served as a key export trading post. Visitors will immediately notice evidence of this in the well preserved San Felipe de Barajas Fort and the impressive barriers of the walls encircling the old town.
The populace are warm and inviting, the food, with heavy Afro-Caribbean influences simply mouthwatering (it’s truly hard to have a terrible meal here), the barrios fascinating, particularly the bohemian and Afrocentric neighborhood of Getsemaní, and the further afield Rosario islands a beach lovers paradise (though fair warning beware of the sometimes turbulent seas!)
It’s been a trip in the making for many years. Glad to have finally checked it out. I look forward to visiting again. Make it a destination or certainly add as a pitstop on a Colombian/South American trip. For tips or help planning your upcoming getaway, do get in touch; be happy to assist.