Sardinia, Enchanted Island

It’s a rather chilly and rainy morning at the end of July in Paris. It’s something I wouldn’t have expected; after all, summer’s in full swing. Mother Nature begs to differ, however. I suppose continued negligence of proper care of our surroundings has its repercussions. I’m wholly unprepared having just landed at Charles de Gaulle (CDG) airport on the overnight from JFK. I’m in a t-shirt and shorts while other Parisians we encounter in the terminal have the benefit of knowing, and are dressed more suitably. Thankfully I’ve just a mere couple hours to bear the frigid temps; I’m here on a brief layover, en route to my final destination, the island of Sardinia.

From North America, as of this accounting, there are no direct flights to the island. A few European gateways, such as Paris, and of course major cities on Italy’s mainland, offer straightforward connections to either Olbia in the north, or Cagliari, its capital, in the south. Today, I’m headed to Cagliari where our journey begins. As aforementioned, it’s its capital, and is also its largest city. 

Touch down’s at Cagliari Elmas Airport (CAG), which is roughly a 15 min taxi ride into town. These are easily accessible outside the terminal and are a flat 25 Euros (as of this writing) to most of the central area. Tip: If you happen to be staying within the Marina area, hop on the efficient REG train service to the main train terminal in town. It’s quite fast, roughly 5 mins, and of course at a fraction of the cost. 

So, here we are in Cagliari, the jumping off point for our exploration of the island. It’s a vibrant metropolis with a rich history spanning centuries and an enthusiastic people eager to welcome visitors. The charming B&B, Eleventh Fl. Suites run by its proprietress, the delightful Roberta, is where I’ve chosen to spend the next several days as we find our footing here in the south and explore the region before making our way up north. With a population of under 200k and a relatively contained center, it’s quite easily manageable. Getting around on foot is easy (if quite a bit hilly in parts, so be mindful), and most points of interest arevwithin relative close proximity. 

Cagliari is significant in Italian history, having once been the seat of the Kingdom of Sardinia-Piedmont, serving as its capital for almost 500 years. Elements of this regal past can still be seen today in the city’s hilltop old quarter which is referred to as the Quartiere Castello (or Castello Quarter). In fact, this is where I’d recommend kicking things off. Ascend to the Castello quarter by taking the steps at the portal of the formidable Bastion Saint Remy (named after Baron San Remy, the first Viceroy of Piedmont). You’re then emptied into a grand open plaza where you can take in impressive almost 360 degree views of greater Cagliari below. 

From there, make your way to one of the most important structures in the Castello, within the Piazza Palazzo, the 13th century Cathedral of Santa Maria di Castello, or simply the Cagliari Cathedral. Within the piazza you may also visit the Palazzo Regio, and the modest though impressive Palazzo di Citta. Finally, round out the afternoon by making your way to the nearby 2nd Century Amfiteatro Romano di Cagliari. It’s unique in its construction - parts of it were carved from the hillside where it’s located and the rest of it from limestone. Also, visitors are once again treated to delightful views of the sea from here. 

Lots of excursions are possible from Cagliari. Be sure to catch the adorable pink flamingos at Parco Naturale Molentargius Saline, take some time out for some R&R at the pleasurable city beach at Poetto, and further afield, Spiaggia Su Giudeu, plus, experience the ruins at the ancient 8th Century BC city of Nora. 

Sardinia, though the second largest island in the Mediterranean, is fairly manageable to explore. Renting a car is highly recommended and is quite straightforward. From Cagliari, we made our way up north to the glitzy Costa Smeralda though making pitstops along the way. Cala Ganone on the island’s east coast is an easy detour en route. Stop by for lunch and a leisure afternoon or, better yet, spend the night should time permit. The waterfront property of Hotel Cala Luna is perfectly situated, offering spectacular views of the sea. From there, the city of Olbia is a relatively short drive away. Here we camped out for our exploration of the northern part of the island. Olbia is easily accessible to Porto Cervo, Palau, La Maddalena, etc., to name a few points of interest. Island hop sailing tours are also possible via multiple tour operators from the town of Palau for instance. This region has a lot of beautiful islands to explore, so make it a point to include on your itinerary. And if you don’t particularly care for a full package tour, then popping over to Palau and taking a ferry (operators run a frequent schedule) to the island of La Maddalena is highly recommended. The journey is smooth and pleasant; plus the island (as with most things in Sardinia) is a stunner. 

Switching gears to the west coast, located to the northwest of the island, roughly about a two hour drive from Olbia, is the unique and charming mediaeval city of Alghero. Unique in the sense that due to its geography and historical context (having once been under the Aragonese crown) Catalan is recognized as a minority language and some of its residents still speak it today. The cobblestoned old town, marina, and impressive fortifications of the old fort are sights not to be missed. 

Overall, a most fascinating and remarkable island. With its rich history, food, nature, stunning beaches, delightful people, etc., Sardinia enchants the visitor. One need only visit with an open mind. 

For bespoke itineraries to Sardinia, do not hesitate to get in touch. We’re happy to help.

Charming Cartagena

Rimming the northwestern coast of the South American continent, and straddling the Caribbean Sea, Cartagena, for centuries, served as a key export trading post. Visitors will immediately notice evidence of this in the well preserved San Felipe de Barajas Fort and the impressive barriers of the walls encircling the old town.

The populace are warm and inviting, the food, with heavy Afro-Caribbean influences simply mouthwatering (it’s truly hard to have a terrible meal here), the barrios fascinating, particularly the bohemian and Afrocentric neighborhood of Getsemaní, and the further afield Rosario islands a beach lovers paradise (though fair warning beware of the sometimes turbulent seas!)

It’s been a trip in the making for many years. Glad to have finally checked it out. I look forward to visiting again. Make it a destination or certainly add as a pitstop on a Colombian/South American trip. For tips or help planning your upcoming getaway, do get in touch; be happy to assist.

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